Istanbul’s Hidden Treasure: Ağva
agva istanbul deserves the attention it now receives, with all its charm and innocence. It wanted to be loved, just like Şile right beside it. And justice prevailed at last—people became passionately attached to it.
A pure blue sea, a beach with fine sand, two wonderful brooks, perfect nature, clean air, attractive gardens, delicious fish… Here is the pearl of the Black Sea region, only 115 km away from Istanbul. Here is Yeşilçay… I can almost hear you ask, “Yeşilçay? Where is it?” Yeşilçay is the official name of Ağva, with which you are already familiar. Why don’t we leave formality aside and use the name Ağva instead?
The Village Set Between Two Brooks
There is of course a reason why this beautiful town is called Ağva. The name means “the village set between two brooks” in Latin. These two brooks are Göksu and Yeşilçay, which come down from Izmit’s Çal Hill. These waters and their surrounding nature arouse feelings that cannot be explained but can only be experienced.
In particular, taking a boat trip along a brook among reeds and trees while birds sing just before sunset is an incomparable pleasure. The pleasure of sailing in a boat is exceptional, but you can also use a canoe or a water bike. If you are with a large group, you can also take a motor craft. Yet if you like to listen to nature’s peaceful silence, it is better to split into small groups and go on a boat trip.
You can also swim in Ağva’s brooks with all shades of green to accompany you. I do not know if you would prefer to swim in the clean and cool Black Sea; nonetheless, it is worth remembering that you can swim in these rivers, especially the Göksu.
agva istanbul and the Black Sea Coast
With the cool blue sea, natural coasts, untouched bays, charming isles, and the three-kilometer-long beach, you may feel as if you are in one of the most beautiful bays of the south. But you must never forget the weather and water temperature.
If you stay too long in the Black Sea and become exposed to the wind after getting out, it is quite possible that you will end this vacation by catching a cold. You would do better to keep yourself within limits when swimming. After all, there is so much to do in Ağva.
So Many Things to Discover
Among the places you need to discover in Ağva are Kilim Bay, Saklıgöl (Hidden Lake) and Gelin Kayası (Bride’s Rock). Gelin Kayası is named as such because it is white and looks like a bride with a veil. If you have rheumatism, remember that walking on the beach, which is believed to be healing, and breathing in the fresh air would be very good for you.
If your trip also includes time in the historic center, Istanbul’s classic sights such as the Bosphorus Cruise or the Princes' Islands offer a very different but equally memorable side of the city.
Journey to the Past
Now let us take a look at Ağva’s past. Just like it embraces those who love it today, Ağva presented itself to Hittites, Phrygians, Romans and Ottomans, and gained a place in history. In the second half of the 14th century, Turkmen from Konya, Karaman and Balıkesir settled there. Today, Ağva’s local people are the children of those Turkmen.
When we look at Ağva’s history, we come across an interesting story. Siyahi Ahmet Efendi, one of the 18th century calligraphers, had to put in at Ağva because of a minor problem in his ship during a journey. He took a walk in Ağva and passed by a cemetery. Siyahi Ahmet Efendi said: “Those poor ones could not make it to Şile and were buried in a more pleasant place.” By coincidence, he died in Ağva that night and was buried in that cemetery.
Ağva does not attract visitors only because of its beautiful nature but also because of its historical remains. You can visit the church and gravestones belonging to the Romans in Kalemköy, and the Gürlek and Inkese caves found in the early 4th century in Hacıllı village. Christians escaping Pagan Romans had taken shelter in these caves for a long time and saved themselves from the Romans’ wrath. Remains of the castle in Hisartepe and the mountain mill in Sungurlu are also among the historical treasures of Ağva.
For a general overview of the district and its setting, you can also check Şile on Wikipedia. For broader travel information on the region, GoTürkiye may be useful before planning your route.
All Kinds of Fresh Fish
One of the most important aspects of Ağva is that you can find all kinds of fresh fish there since it is on the coast of the Black Sea. The abundance of fishing boats will catch your eye when you take your first steps in Ağva. In the attractive restaurants beside the blue sea or a green brook, you can find fresh fish of the season.
It is impossible to leave Ağva without eating fish. Menus of the restaurants include fish cooked on the grill, wood fire or tile kiln. The meals are improved in taste by adding sweet bay leaves and special sauces, which are described as quite affordable. In this paradise, if you prefer going to the restaurants in the countryside, you can also have such delicious food as quail, chicken or kebab.
After dinner, it is recommended that you walk to the lighthouse where the river meets the sea, and take deep breaths of the Black Sea’s refreshing air. If you are interested in fishing, or would simply like to try, Ağva is an ideal place for you. Fishermen in Ağva are helpful—they do not just inform you, they let you go fishing with them and have fun listening to their stories.
A Unique Environment
Ağva is a good place not only for fishing but also for time in nature, with gazelles, jackals, many species of birds and especially kingfishers in the forests. However, it is much better to enjoy the sight than hunt. If you want to make the most of Ağva’s forests, you can also enjoy cycling and hiking.
After reading about the heavenly beauties of Ağva, have you begun to adore it, too? You are lucky to be one of Ağva lovers, because, having been neglected and thus upset for so many years, Ağva now embraces all those who love it and gives them whatever they need.
If you continue your journey back into the city, landmarks such as the Galata Tower can make a fine contrast to Ağva’s quiet rivers and shore.
How to Get to Ağva
If you go by car, follow the Ümraniye-Şile route. After passing Şile, go through Kabanoz, İmranlı and Kurfallı. You will arrive in Ağva in about one and a half hours.
If you want to travel by bus, you can use the Şile-Ağva buses that run from Üsküdar every hour. As routes and schedules can change, it is wise to check current public transport information before setting out.
